Over the past 30 years or so, our regional wineries have begun to hone their skills, both in the vineyard and cellar, with this variety. Typically, we have not been known for great reds, but cabernet franc is beginning to gain significant recognition.

It is widely grown in Europe in such classic regions as the Loire, Bordeaux, Anjou and Medoc and has become a mostly reliable, somewhat-winter-hardy-variety here in the Lake Erie American Viticultural Area.

The talents of our vintners have begun to show. In the past decade, our cab francs frequently have emerged with gold and silver medals in the best competitions across the country. Dustin Heineman recently won ‘best of class’ for his Midwest cab franc in the prestigious International Cabernet Franc competition. Similar recognition has been garnered by M Cellars, Deonne, Ferrante, Laurello, Buccia, Gervasi, South River and Silver Crest Cellars. Ohio cab francs have begun to appear at some of the area’s most respected restaurants.

Cab franc, as it is commonly known, is a grape variety which produces a “black” cluster but often makes a lighter and brighter red than its cousin cabernet sauvignon. It has fewer tannins and is less “meaty” than cab sauv too. A finished wine often shows off a peppery aroma with hints of tobacco, raspberry, bell pepper, granite and sometimes even violets on the nose.

Cab franc was widely planted in Bordeaux through the 18th century and most geneticists believe it is a cross between cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc. It is grown nearly everywhere in the world where fine vinifera can survive, including much of Europe, Canada, California, Washington State, Michigan, New York, and even parts of Pennsylvania and Illinois. And of course, in Ohio, in the Lake Erie region and the Ohio River Valley and Conneaut Creek regions of northern Ohio.

One of the reasons it can be grown in this region more easily than some of its red counterparts is that it generally ripens a week or two earlier in the harvest season. In good years, that fruit maturity will provide complex, interesting wines. Additionally, pulling the fruit off early in the season allows the vine time to harden off and go into the winter in good condition. In especially cool years, when even this early ripening variety cannot reach full maturity, several of our Ohio winemakers have produced exceptional rose still wines, often finished with just a hint of residual sugar. With rose hot among aficionados, cab franc has filled lots of store shelves and generated considerable black ink for our wineries.

Its berries are quite small with fairly thin skins. While some cab franc is made into ice wines, it is more problematic than the tough-skinned vidal blanc which produces most of our white ice wines. However, in years when Mother Nature cooperates, a lovely rose-colored ice wine from the variety can be a real treat. There are also several wineries in the East who use this rose style in the growing popularity of the slightly-carbonated wines with a bit of bubbles in the finish.

For more information on all things wine related, email Donniella at dwinchell@ohiowines.org.