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Dear Doctor: I own a 2011 Subaru Legacy with 75,000. There are no major problems, except for some rattles the car developed in the last six months. I’m sure that this past winter (and previous ones before) and hitting a few potholes have caused some rattles coming from the front of the car and maybe in the dashboard. Are there repair service centers that specialize in finding rattles?
– Herb
Dear Herb: Older Subaru vehicles are noted to have exhaust heat shield rattles. We secure them when possible by using metal hose clamps. The other area that causes rattles is sway bar links/sway bar bushings – not only on Subaru vehicles, but on other makes, too. Sway bar links and bushings need to be checked on a drive-on style lift so that the suspension is loaded.
Dear Doctor: I am the original owner of a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder with 125,000 miles. It’s well maintained and in great condition in and out. Recently I’ve been experiencing trouble with the rear hatch lock. When I lock the vehicle with the key fob, the rear hatch doesn’t always lock. Sometimes it takes me several attempts. There is no key lock for it, only the front doors. Have you heard of this problem?
– Mike
Dear Mike: There are no ongoing issues on this complaint. I would suggest having a technician check the operation of the electronic actuator and latch assembly. There is also a close sensor for the door. Your vehicle is over 10 years old and parts do wear out and need replacement.
Dear Doctor: I’m considering buying a car that has a gasoline direct injection (GDI) fuel system. I’ve been told that, because its design prevents gasoline from passing through the intake valves, carbon has built up on the back of the intake valves. It seems that the head may have to come off to remove the deposits. This is an expensive repair. What would you advise about this problem?
– Gilbert
Dear Gilbert: The use of premium unleaded fuel and a good-quality fuel injection cleaner additive used on a monthly basis is recommended. Quick acceleration getting on the highway from the off-ramp is also a plus. The worst cause for carbon build-up is city driving; with light acceleration, carbon build-up occurs more readily. Drive the engine on the highway for 30 minutes or more to burn off the carbon deposits and reduce moisture in the exhaust system.
Dear Doctor: I have a 2015 Hyundai Tucson Limited AWD with a push-button start. Aside from the electronic fob, there is no actual “key” to start the car: instead, I must put my foot on the brake and press the start button. I’ve gotten stuck two times at shopping center parking lots. An employee from one of the stores said he has seen numerous cars with this type of ignition system get stuck often in this lot. Has anyone complained of this problem and what do you think is the cause?
– Joanne
Dear Joanne: No, I’m not aware of any complaints on this car and there are no Technical Service Bulletins on this problem. I’ve heard some complaints with electrical magnetic interference (EMI), which happens when there are a lot of signals in the air that can run interference with the vehicle’s Bluetooth signal. Most vehicles have a port that you can insert the key fob or separate the key fob from the key; some ports are even located in the glove box or under the dash. Make sure the key fob battery is good.
Dear Doctor: I have a 2013 Ford F-150. When I turn on the air conditioning or fan, a terrible smell emanates from the vents. It’s not your typical mold smell. I looked online and some people describe it as smelling like a box of band aids, electrical, or formaldehyde – and my truck has that same smell. I took it to a local Ford dealer and they cleaned out the system, but the smell is back. Any suggestions on what to do next?
– Tim
Dear Tim: The smell from the vents is caused from mold and old water build-up. There is no smell from the a/c refrigerant. You need to ensure the heater box vent drain is not plugged up. If it is plugged, then clear out the drain hole. You can find the drain hole location on Alldata.com. Any brand of spray disinfectant can help eliminate odor: With the engine running and heater blower at full speed, spray the disinfectant into the system (usually found at the lower part of the windshield passenger side). Start with the temperature control on hot, spray the disinfectant for 60 seconds and let the system run for 20 minutes. Then do the same on the cold setting and finish again on hot. This should eliminate mold build-up. Use the spray monthly to kill any future mold build-up.