Evergreens are beautiful plants that provide year-round interest, especially during winter when everything else is dormant.

But to get through the winter, evergreens need a little help during fall to prepare them for the cold.

It was very dry this summer. Several plants and shrubs have succumbed to this drought and will show more signs of dieback and issues next season. Even though we’ve had rain, the drought impact will persist.

This means our evergreens are stressed and need our assistance even more during fall and into early winter.

Evergreens are green, of course, because their leaves (or needles) are alive all year and they have a continuing need for water.

This continuous need for available water makes evergreens vulnerable to winter burn.

Winter burn, or winter desiccation, is a condition that occurs when the leaves lose too much moisture and turn brown or die.

This can happen in the winter when the ground is frozen and the roots are unable to absorb enough water, or when the sun and wind are too strong.

There are several steps you can take now to help your evergreens avoid this problem.

• Water your evergreens deeply and regularly throughout the fall season and into early winter. This will help ensure that the roots are well hydrated before the winter months arrive.

• Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the evergreens.

A layer of 2 to 4 inches of organic material, such as shredded mulch, wood chips or pine needles will do fine.

This will help the soil to remain moist, regulate the soil temperature and prevent frost heaving.

Frost heaving is when the soil expands and contracts due to freezing and thawing.

• Avoid fertilizing evergreens this time of year! Fertilizing can encourage new growth, which is more susceptible to winter burn.

• Wrap young or tender evergreens with burlap or other fabric to protect them from wind and sun.

An anti-desiccant spray can also be used. Anti-desiccant sprays are products that coat the leaves of evergreen plants with a thin layer of wax, which reduces moisture loss and prevents drying out.

You can apply them in late fall or early winter. Carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Choose evergreens that are hardy in our area. The Mahoning Valley has a USDA hardiness zone rating of 6a. Any evergreen with a zone rating of 6a or lower should be hardy in our area. When buying new plants, check the tag for zone information.

• Avoid pruning this fall, and in general do not prune from late summer through early spring. Pruning at the wrong time may cause new growth to emerge, which won’t have time to harden off before winter.

• Plant evergreens in sheltered locations. Avoid planting them in areas where they will be exposed to strong winds and direct sunlight.

If no shelter is available, a wind or sunscreen can be constructed until the plant is well-established.

A popular trend these days is the planting of evergreens in containers.

Evergreen plants are hardy, but when growing in the container they need a little extra attention to protect them from the cold.

• Containerized plants are more exposed to temperature fluctuations than those in the ground, so they should be able to tolerate colder temperatures than your zone.

A good rule of thumb is to go two zones colder with containerized plants.

• Use larger pots with good drainage and insulation. Larger pots have more soil volume which can help buffer the roots from freezing and thawing cycles. Make sure the pots have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging and root rot. You can also wrap the pots with burlap, bubble wrap or other insulating materials to protect them from frost.

• And if possible, move the container into a sheltered location, such as a garage during the coldest days of winter.

Even with precautions winter injury can still happen in severe weather.

How can you know if your evergreen has had a winter injury? The best time to inspect for winter burn is in the spring after new growth has started.

Look for brown or discolored leaves or needles. If you find winter burn, the University of Wisconsin says to prune back the stem or branch to living tissue and gently scratch the outer surface to see if it is green.

Green means it’s living and brown indicates it is dead.

If you can’t tell if the brown leaves or needles are a result of winter burn or caused by something else, bring a sample of the evergreen into the Mahoning Extension Office’s clinic for an evaluation.

Due to the stressor of this season’s drought, these steps are more important than usual. With a little care, your evergreens can avoid the burn and be healthy and beautiful next spring.

For more on winter burn of evergreens, visit https://go.osu.edu/winterburn.

For more information on anti-desiccants, visit https://go.osu.edu/winterprotection.

Sprague is an Ohio State University Extension Master Gardener Volunteer in Mahoning County.